Showing posts with label karl lagerfeld. Show all posts
Showing posts with label karl lagerfeld. Show all posts

Sunday, 15 November 2015

Chanel Mademoiselle Privé

Going into the Chanel Mademoiselle Privé exhibition at the Saatchi Gallery, I had high expectations. After waiting in a snaking queue for 50 long minutes, I think anyone would have had similar expectations. 

After entering the building we were directed into the first room, consisting of the replica of the famous glass staircase which links the Chanel Rue Cambon flagship store to Coco's apartment. Following on from that was meant to be a re-invention of Mademoiselle Chanel's hat shop in Deauville, which she started at the very beginning of her career. Unfortunately, there was only a room comprised of walls plastered with monochrome prints of a shop window and with the addition of card hats popping out of cardboard boxes. I would have appreciated some colour and not from going on a constantly crashing app to get the full picture.
Afterwards, we entered yet another room which supposedly represented Coco's apartment; however to me it resembled nothing of the sort. We had a continuation of those printed walls. I think it is safe to say that it lacked lustre to the extremist degree.

 

Moving on into the next area, we were presented to a birdcage which held a colossal copy of one of Chanel's diamond star necklaces from the exclusive Comète Collection. However, this just seemed to be a rotating plastic beaded sculpture.


 


We then walked into a room which was entitled 'Totems', I am sorry my dear readership but has anyone ever heard of Chanel Totems? No, we have not. They were the most unusual things. Firstly, we had a tower of strings of pearls encapsulated by what only could be described as a giant fish bowl with even more pearls. The next was called 'Lucky Numbers', essentially some dominoes placed into the shape of a robot, apparently carrying the meaning that all those numbers were lucky, despite the fact we saw every number. Lastly, there was one constructed out of wheat. Like wheat, what did that symbolize? I, personally, did not have the faintest clue. I simply didn't understand how those representations translated into fashion or art for that matter. 







The last two rooms on the ground floor I can deem faintly interesting. For example, one included a selection of hanging white sheet fabrics which you could touch. The last room on the ground floor was meant to be the Chanel No5 scent room - where these big electronic canisters filled with the individual notes which make up the timeless scent of Chanel No5 opened, revealing an array of garishly-toned brews. However, after standing over the jasmine pool for a lengthy amount of time, I smelt no jasmine. In fact, there was no overall smell of Chanel No5. It was more about the installation than the purpose.


 
 



Ascending the stairs we entered the room which showcased Chanel's finest jewels- Bijoux De Dimants, and thank goodness we actually saw clothes. Although they were not just clothes, no no no, they were evidently Karl Lagerfeld clothes. This is what I simply cannot comprehend. In this exhibition Lagerfeld is paying homage to Coco Chanel, shouldn’t they have displayed some of the archived pieces from Coco's time. For example, we had that really chic cropped blazer, paired with the full A-line chiffon skirt which was undoubtedly one of my favourites, until I looked at the shoe. The couture trainer.
They also did not think through the layout of the exhibit either. Everyone was forced to inch round the walls of the tight room by fierce looking security guards who shouted at us if we even dared to bend our necks forward to be in the 1 metre radius of viewing an emerald green velvet dress with the intricate diamond clasp. I do, however, have to say that some of that jewellery was divine.



What was also quite interesting to me was that there was hardly any written information. Yes, there was the faint Voiceover of an actress playing Coco Chanel but no indication as to what anything was. Similarly, I did not like the idea of having to turn to that interactive app for extra information; it was not as easily accessible as Chanel probably would have wanted. Nevertheless, I do not consider that an exhibition, having to seek information on your phone, instead of actually looking at the physical presentation, is a good idea. 

Overall, I felt that the exhibition did not know what it wanted to be. It was neither an aesthetic appreciation of the finest things we usually associate with the house of Chanel, nor did it offer a comprehensive history.

                Picture Courtesy of me and Vogue.co.uk

Thursday, 29 October 2015

Chanel Spring/Summer 2016


I used to be the biggest fan of Chanel. I think it is fair to say that I much prefer Chanel show spectacles like the Supermarket from the Fall 2014 collection rather than the actual pieces in the shows.

My general feeling about Lagerfeld at Chanel is that he's lost his touch, completely. Don't get me wrong: we still have a reference to Coco - sharp structured tweed suits in now a multitude of newly developed sporty neoprene fabrics and garish marbled colour palettes; somewhat ruining her pioneering, signature looks, however.
 
Saying all this, Karl seems to have a tendency to push everything out of proportion. In a typical prêt-a-porter show, we normally see a strong 40-50 looks that fit perfectly into a set theme or incentive. However at Chanel, we see a frankly lack-lustre 90 or more looks, most of which are the exact copies of the ensembles we have seen prior to that specific collection. 


 
 
 
To buyers and editors, enthralled would be an understatement; they feed off the giant branding sets which today took the shape of a Chanel Airport. A set which we have seen in the past, to be exact Spring/Summer 2012 Couture- Cara Delevingne's runway debut, was the collection which allegedly showed the future for Chanel's Haute Couture. 

However, I digress. This season's Chanel was all about the jet-setting life of the super-rich (hence the presence of Kendall Jenner who closed the show).

photo 1-1 photo 1-2

The clothes simply did not radiate quintessential Coco or even the basic essence of Chanel for that matter; they emitted a futuristic angle which was more tacky than anything: giant orange mirrored aviators covered the faces of the models paired with flat-formed plastic drawstring boots and bubble-gum PVC coats.
 
 


 
 


In contrast to my rather pessimistic point of view, there were some undoubtedly beautiful pieces- the sour-toned checked tweed jumpsuit which opened and the layering of kick flares underneath full chiffon or leather skirts, dabbled with the ideas of classicism meets the digital era. The branded wheelie luggage bags and petite airplane brooches will definitely get the global e-commerce soaring.


 
 


 Kick flares which sat loosely under full-skirts

 

There was a definite sense of diversity, albeit eclectic, in relation to the overall execution of the show; diversity was shown through the model casting and the new, fluid silhouettes sent down the runway.
At this point in time, it seems that futurism is the only theme that Lagerfeld can bring to the Chanel check-in desk. For example, those trainers he put in one of his Couture shows, or those crushed Camellia flowers which emblazoned a tweed overcoat. I'm sorry to say this, but I do believe it is time for a change. The brand is in need of a new lease of life, Karl has led an incredible legacy, but he's coming to the end of his time.

 
Please note: I do not own any of these images, courtesy of Vogue.com & edwardlewisstyle.com,