Sunday, 15 November 2015

Chanel Mademoiselle Privé

Going into the Chanel Mademoiselle Privé exhibition at the Saatchi Gallery, I had high expectations. After waiting in a snaking queue for 50 long minutes, I think anyone would have had similar expectations. 

After entering the building we were directed into the first room, consisting of the replica of the famous glass staircase which links the Chanel Rue Cambon flagship store to Coco's apartment. Following on from that was meant to be a re-invention of Mademoiselle Chanel's hat shop in Deauville, which she started at the very beginning of her career. Unfortunately, there was only a room comprised of walls plastered with monochrome prints of a shop window and with the addition of card hats popping out of cardboard boxes. I would have appreciated some colour and not from going on a constantly crashing app to get the full picture.
Afterwards, we entered yet another room which supposedly represented Coco's apartment; however to me it resembled nothing of the sort. We had a continuation of those printed walls. I think it is safe to say that it lacked lustre to the extremist degree.

 

Moving on into the next area, we were presented to a birdcage which held a colossal copy of one of Chanel's diamond star necklaces from the exclusive Comète Collection. However, this just seemed to be a rotating plastic beaded sculpture.


 


We then walked into a room which was entitled 'Totems', I am sorry my dear readership but has anyone ever heard of Chanel Totems? No, we have not. They were the most unusual things. Firstly, we had a tower of strings of pearls encapsulated by what only could be described as a giant fish bowl with even more pearls. The next was called 'Lucky Numbers', essentially some dominoes placed into the shape of a robot, apparently carrying the meaning that all those numbers were lucky, despite the fact we saw every number. Lastly, there was one constructed out of wheat. Like wheat, what did that symbolize? I, personally, did not have the faintest clue. I simply didn't understand how those representations translated into fashion or art for that matter. 







The last two rooms on the ground floor I can deem faintly interesting. For example, one included a selection of hanging white sheet fabrics which you could touch. The last room on the ground floor was meant to be the Chanel No5 scent room - where these big electronic canisters filled with the individual notes which make up the timeless scent of Chanel No5 opened, revealing an array of garishly-toned brews. However, after standing over the jasmine pool for a lengthy amount of time, I smelt no jasmine. In fact, there was no overall smell of Chanel No5. It was more about the installation than the purpose.


 
 



Ascending the stairs we entered the room which showcased Chanel's finest jewels- Bijoux De Dimants, and thank goodness we actually saw clothes. Although they were not just clothes, no no no, they were evidently Karl Lagerfeld clothes. This is what I simply cannot comprehend. In this exhibition Lagerfeld is paying homage to Coco Chanel, shouldn’t they have displayed some of the archived pieces from Coco's time. For example, we had that really chic cropped blazer, paired with the full A-line chiffon skirt which was undoubtedly one of my favourites, until I looked at the shoe. The couture trainer.
They also did not think through the layout of the exhibit either. Everyone was forced to inch round the walls of the tight room by fierce looking security guards who shouted at us if we even dared to bend our necks forward to be in the 1 metre radius of viewing an emerald green velvet dress with the intricate diamond clasp. I do, however, have to say that some of that jewellery was divine.



What was also quite interesting to me was that there was hardly any written information. Yes, there was the faint Voiceover of an actress playing Coco Chanel but no indication as to what anything was. Similarly, I did not like the idea of having to turn to that interactive app for extra information; it was not as easily accessible as Chanel probably would have wanted. Nevertheless, I do not consider that an exhibition, having to seek information on your phone, instead of actually looking at the physical presentation, is a good idea. 

Overall, I felt that the exhibition did not know what it wanted to be. It was neither an aesthetic appreciation of the finest things we usually associate with the house of Chanel, nor did it offer a comprehensive history.

                Picture Courtesy of me and Vogue.co.uk

Saturday, 7 November 2015

Racial Diversity On The Runway

What do we mean by 'diversity'? Owing to the fact that one of the most crucial movements in fashion is diversity, one would think it was a good sign that the current trend for Spring/Summer 2016 is 'diversity'. However this is not just diversity through model castings; this is diversity shown through shapes and silhouettes. With Olivier Rousteing at Balmain celebrating curves and the Paris Fashion Week Board officially banning super-skinny models, it seems like there has been rather a re-definition of the word. Perhaps this is a cunning diversion away from the serious issue of ethnic diversity that the industry fails to take responsibility for at present.

According to The Business of Fashion's Spring/Summer 2016 diversity report, an astonishing 79% of runway models used this season were white. Why not more models of colour?
Designers such as Victoria Beckham and Francisco Costa at Calvin Klein have been criticised season after season for casting an array of very angry super-skinny looking models, and even more surprisingly they are all white. Probably the most disparagement went to the house of Valentino. Despite producing a collection solely inspired by Africa, Valentino made use of entirely white models in cornrows and tribalized prints, showing an intense lack of respect towards the African communities and instead generalising their country to fit in with Valentino's now seemingly profane aesthetic.




Saying this, there are a minority of designers who are encouraging the influx of more diverse model selections. For example: Tom FordRiccardo Tisci and Christopher Bailey for Burberry. Supermodels such as Naomi Campbell, Iman and Jourdan Dunn have all been campaigning on the issue and thanks to them, in recent years, we have seen a fairly modest surge in racial diversity across the industry.

Jourdan Dunn and Naomi Campbell for Burberry


I believe that it is vital that the industry does not dismiss the austere nature of this problem. As much as we continue to encourage the use of other minorities throughout the industry, it still does not seem to conquer the face of discrimination from employers. In my opinion, I think that if we continue to voice our opinions perhaps the fashion industry will stop turning a blind-eye to the real problems and face the situation head-on.  


Picture Courtesy: www.Dazeddigital.com  & www.style.com