Louis Vuitton Menswear Fall 2016

As the majority of you know, I am more of a womenswear blogger than a menswear one. However, today, I thought I would please my male readers by reviewing the Louis Vuitton Menswear show.

It’s been five whole years since Kim Jones became creative director for Louis Vuitton Men’s. Over the lustrum, we have seen a dramatic change in both aesthetics and commerce. We’ve witnessed the re-modelling of the brand’s historical link with travel, including the focus on the iconic leather luggage goods and accessories. We have also seen a rapid increase in sales and popularity due to the sheer practicality and grandeur of the clothing produced.

For this season’s menswear collection Kim Jones explored deeper into the house’s French DNA. We saw, as always, an interpretation on the theme of travel. From the navy silk pyjamas imprinted with ‘volez voyagez voguez’ (fly sail travel) mirroring Jones’ own adoration for travelling, to the wide array of luggage - vanity cases, duffel bags, satchels and oversized totes plastered with the monochrome monogram print, playing with the idea of somewhat paired back luxe.

 

Vanity cases and totes in a subdued palette

The show started out with a flurry of very sharp, controlled yet impeccably tailored formalwear pieces- fur overcoats with narrow legged tapered trousers and cashmere jackets infused with silk which served up a new textural dimension consisting of softer, cleaner lines.

As the show gradually progressed we hit an undoubtedly utilitarian selection of looks: stamp motifs slapped solidly onto the backs of sartorial suede outerwear and shearling lined taupe cashmere-coated bomber jackets and parkas brought the word ‘dandy’ back into our fashion vocabularies for the better.  

 

The colour palette was predominantly made up of neutrals such as: black, grey and ivory, however nuances of olive, navy and taupe also featured. As well as that, Jones used a geometric print to smother the lighter jersey outerwear pieces, perhaps suggesting romanticism, classicism or modernism? You decide.

Parisian influences were also out in full glory. Militarized berets accompanied by silk scarves worn as chokers and encrusted LV brooches with jangly earrings provided a hint of youth amongst this profoundly sophisticated collection.
My favourite pieces included the cross-patterned wool collarless coat with a fur belt and also the white silk shirt with ribbon-like wisps of black Art-Deco print which spoke amplitudes of luxury and fluidity.

I have to say that this was the only menswear collection this season where I wanted to buy everything!


Please note: I do not own any of these images, courtesy of Vogue.com
 

Golden Globes 2016 Red Carpet Critique

It has come to that time of the year where my blog becomes ridden with hearty awards season red carpet critiques that are adored by so many of you.
Clinquant corals, plush pinks, mercury metallics and virtuous vanillas all doused the red carpet at the 73rd annual Golden Globe's creating a subtle spring-like ambiance which was embraced by all.
Without further ado I present to you my best and worst dressed of the evening:


Firstly, we start by discussing the most popular trend of the night- we are finally saying goodbye to the 'thighbrow' and welcoming in the 'ab flash'. According to Jennifer Lawrence and Brie Larson, who both picked floor-skimming gowns with perfectly proportioned cut-outs which sat low on the hip.
Brie, who was awarded best actress for her portrayal of a woman held in captivity in 'Room' wore a custom gown designed by none other than Francisco Costa at Calvin Klein. We like this, don't we, my dear readership?! She's gone for the X neck-line which we are all currently hankering over for Spring/Summer 2016, alongside copious lines of gold beaded embellishments which delicately fade away revealing sheer biscuity undertones . 10/10

Jennifer Lawrence, on the other hand, looked severely sumptuous in this structured scarlet Christian Dior paired with a diamond choker. After Raf Simon's 3 years as creative director for Dior, it seems that the essence of classic 50s Dior still very much remains, however now there is a much needed new futuristic dimension (hence the elevated midriff and the cut-outs). 10/10

Kate Hudson also followed suit delivering an ambitious albeit equally mesmerizing look. She donned a blush pink jewel-toned Michael Kors triptych of a choker, bandeau and skirt all connected up into one piece. Without a doubt a very risqué piece, however I think she carries it very well indeed. 9.5/10

We have reached our Givenchy 'moment', as one now calls it. Screen siren Cate Blanchett wore a piece from Riccardo Tisci's Spring/Summer 2016 collection, rather the more retrospective assemblage. All the evening gowns Tisci creates are artistically stunning, the attention to detail is just out of this world. Mirroring my thesis, Cate wears one of the most ornate gowns produced by the house, consisting 1920's lace applique and pearl pink layered fringe. Definitely evoking subtle hints of Tisci's rather romantic yet fetishist aesthetic. Unequivocally 10/10 from me.

Rooney Mara completely contrasted with her co-star Blanchett, sporting this rather drab shredded ruffled Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton. This dress has no life inside it, I am sorry but I saw the SS16 McQueen collection and none of the dresses presented were as dead as the one I see before me. Sarah Burton was meant to be exploring some of McQueen's fundamental leitmotifs including; naturalism, romanticism and the seemingly integral historicism. I see the historicism in this gown, but in no way shape or form is there the brief nuance of romanticism, not even the dusky rose palette nor the torn tiers of lace. 6/10

 

Moving onto Alicia Vikander in this white pleated pinafore-style Louis Vuitton gown. Now I am aware that a lot of people were not one for this dress, but I personally am infatuated with it. She epitomizes that new Vuitton look of sheer edginess, modernity and femininity. Love.. 9.7/10

Why was Katy Perry there? And why did she turn up wearing that dress? It was truly embarrassing... Don't get me wrong, it was a perfectly pleasant  Prada evening gown, minus the fact that it was  about two sizes too small for her resulting in her inability to actually walk. I mean Katy, please, this is not 2009 anymore; flailing your assets around, left, right and centre won't do anyone good! This is just simply beyond my comprehension.. 3.5/10

 

Saoirse Ronan looked like an ethereal vision in a cream (Yves) Saint Laurent. Who knew Hedi Slimane of YSL could veer away from seventies rock 'n' roll and execute such a simple though still classic gown? 9/10

Before I begin, can we just take a moment and appreciate that J-Lo is 46 and looks like that!? Simply incredible, in my opinion. She wore a mustard Giambattista Valli with a caped back and plenty of ruching. She defines everything timeless about Hollywood at this moment in time. 9/10

Regina King showed us two things- 1) how to pay homage to Diana Ross and 2) how to successfully fail at it. I shall be frank, so please don't take offense. It looks like a mermaid has thrown up on her and then Batman arrived to save the day and she stole his cape then sprayed it white so she'd look more 'paired down'. Well good job with that love. 5/10

Next we have Kate Bosworth in this Dolce&Gabbana OTT sequined gown. (It seems she's joining with Regina King to start a Diana Ross tribute band). As we all know, I do not like Dolce&Gabbana and I never will. I automatically take offense to all of their clothing simply because it is so atrociously tacky, this included. I am blinded by the amount of sequins they have managed to pack onto that poor woman. Kudos to her for her beauty look though, a strong 9 for that. 4.7/10

Amber Heard in Gucci is admittedly one of my favourites of the night. The pink palette is soft but at the same time gives the garment the right amount of audacity, especially with the addition of the floral adornment. That pleated tulle totally works in her favour, perfectly sculpting her figure and most importantly completing that look of outright fantasy. 10/10

 I'm glad to see that the fashion bloggers are attending the Globes this year. However, saying this, I am not so glad to see Olivia Palermo in this Delpozo. I am a fan of Olivia Palermo and her style, so I understand that she wants to be a bit more edgy and alternative, nonetheless I feel that this dress drowns her petite frame and that is a shame. 6.8/10

Finally we have come to my best dressed of the night! Lady Gaga in custom Atelier Versace.. undoubtedly an embodiment of Marilyn. Can we just appreciate just how inconceivably elegant this gown is?! The black velvet adds this luxurious dimension which is so hard to attain and the accentuation of her figure is so perfectly proportioned. I simply could not critique this dress even if I tried, it is one of the most stunning things I've ever seen! 1000000/10

Please Note: I do not own any of these images, courtesy of British Vogue- Vogue.co.uk (Getty)

What's The Future For Dior?

With the sudden departure of Raf Simons at Christian Dior late last year, questions are swirling around the media concerning who will take over the post of creative director for the house. As the LVMH have already announced, the atelier design team will be taking the reigns for next season's couture and pret-a-porter FW16 collections, but that still doesn't prevent us budding fashionistas from pondering about who Dior will select for said role.

Included in my list of predictions are the likes of; Riccardo Tisci (creative director at Givenchy), Marc Jacobs (ex creative director at Louis Vuitton) and Olivier Rousteing (creative director at Balmain). In terms of their individual aesthetics, I think they each have something very unique yet intrinsically classical embedded into their DNA. This, perhaps, mirrors how well-suited they are in possibly designing for Dior.
 For example, Riccardo Tisci brings a poignant dark romanticism and Gothicism to all of his collections, alongside nuances of his signature streetwear look. For me, what is so incredible about his work is that he uses a perpetual array of reference points like the neo-gothic religious imagery he morphs into disproportioned t-shirts and the seemingly natural scattering of Victorian motifs on the most simplest of garments. I believe he could re-work the classicism and romanticism which we already associate with the house of Dior and drive it into a more diverse and modernized dimension.

 Neo-gothic imagery at Givenchy Fall 2015

 

American Vogue's 'Forces of Fashion' with Beyoncé (in Givenchy) and Riccardo Tisci

My second choice would be Olivier Rousteing. He is a strong contender for the role because he is able to bring that hype and attention from social media needed to bring clothing alive. As we all know, Balmain is, in no way, shape or form, at all traditional; in fact, Rousteing has completely gone against his brand's DNA but instead made up for it with this new appeal of luxury and opulence. Not only has he created a brand with incredibly successful profit margins but he has also made a brand which is adored by everyone (the celebrity cult especially). Perhaps this is what Dior needs, a refresh, a digital awakening?

 Balmain Spring/Summer 2016 campaign ft. Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer and Olivier Rousteing

Lastly, I had toyed with the idea of bringing in Marc Jacobs. He is without a doubt a legend in fashion. Throughout his 16 remarkable years at Louis Vuitton, it was noticeable that his design style and aesthetic grew immensely. I think it is fair to say that he 100% transformed the house of Vuitton from once being a tired, old independent fashion brand to a multi-million label with a net income of around $500 billion.  The real trick of his trade was that he used his imagination, he was a fantasist. Every single one of his shows he produced either for Vuitton or for his own brand told a story or rather a fairytale. The clothes themselves spoke depth and character, you could be transported into any time or place when you put them on. For example, Vuitton's Fall/Winter 2011 collection (one of my favourites) of 40s arch provocateurs- patent trench coats, sheer capri pants and leather corsets in rich tones of burgundy, brown and bottle green.

 

Louis Vuitton Fall 2011 by Marc Jacobs

 

Jourdan Dunn in a patent snakeskin trench coat with a cinched in waist

 

 Leather corsetry and volumized proportions

 

 Kate Moss

 

I for one do hope they appoint a female designer, simply because I feel like the industry as a whole lacks female presence. Don't get me wrong, we do have some exceptional female designers such as: Phoebe Philo at Celine, Claire Waight Keller at Chloe, Stella McCartney and Mary Katrantzou, who could all potentially step up to the plate. However, at this point in time, the industry is very much one of the only businesses which is so extremely male dominated.


Please note: I do not own any of these images, courtesy od Vogue.co.uk and Vogue.com

Spring/Summer 2016 Trends

Forgive me, for I know we are still embracing the last of those wintry months, however it has come to my attention that we must begin to address the fast approaching Spring/Summer season.

Although this post very much focuses on the trends for next season, trends on some level are dying out. There is such a huge desire within the fashion industry to be original and individual that people withdraw themselves from any of the trends and choose clothing which is either: really comfortable and cheap or unique (investment buys), for example, the 'urbanista', as we now call it. This is a person who believes only in a non-mainstream and alternative way of dressing, someone who can adapt their style to their surroundings, as it were. 

Don't get me wrong, the trend is still very much prominent, yet I think we must choose to focus more on purchasing those timeless pieces which will last in our wardrobe eternally. So, without further a do, I present to you, my dear readership, some of the key trends for Spring/Summer 2016:

• Soft, subdued shades of buttermilk, shortbread, biscuity browns and chalky pinstripes plastered onto layers of new proportioned linen speak Spring/Summer simplicity. Take Balmain's voluminous toffee suedes or chocolate browns transposed onto tiered ruffles and jewelled lattice work, definitely amplifying the connotation of glamour.

Balmain

• Sleep no more? Silk, satin and lace- along with lots of skin- were all over the Spring/Summer 2016 runways as lingerie-inspired slip-dresses, laced-up negligees and sheer nightshirts went from in the bedroom to sartorially sharp.

We saw brands such as Celine, Givenchy and Dior all embrace the day-into-night inspired looks with open arms. One must-have is the camisole top from La Perla, retailing at £300. Envision that paired with a YSL Le Smoking jacket, low slung tapered trousers and a pair of Louboutins. Undoubtedly pure Parisian perfection.

YSL Le Smoking Tuxedo

• There seems to be a rather strong movement of New Romanticism for Spring/Summer. The Victoriana trend has been dousing the catwalks throughout the last few seasons. However, now, designers are filling the catwalks with an ultramodern take on traditional femininity- hence the powder pink hues, flouncy frills, fanciful florals and pie-crust necklines. Seen at McQueen, Fendi, Vetements and JW Anderson.

McQueen

Fendi

J.W Anderson

• As I mentioned previously, there has been an introduction to new proportions. Take Phoebe Philo for Céline's masculine vs feminine idea. Moving away from minimalist shapes and diluted colours, into more accentuated silhouettes and voluminous dimensions- crepe trousers, puffed up shoulders and cinched in waists. Unquestionably a clever way to add a bit more fun and freedom to your wardrobe necessities.

Celine

• It's just one of those well known facts that everyone adores a white button-up. It's the go-to piece which can, without a doubt, tszuj up your wardrobe with a single blast of formality. This season, designers haven't just taken the basic white shirt but given it a complete re-model. We have now seen a complete deconstruction take place of one of the classic staples. We now have tops, skirts and bustiers all fashioned out of the garment - albeit keeping to modern standards of vast layering and futuristic lines and cuts. Seen at Margaret Howell, Delpozo and Jacquemus.

Delpozo

Jacquemus

• Forget your flats, it's all about the flatform now! Yes that's correct, it's time to say au revoir to ballet pumps and Yeezy Boosts (if you do so dare to own some) and welcome in a new addition- the hybrid flatform Greek sandal. Seen at Chanel, Burberry and Giambattista Valli.

Chanel

I hope this provides you, my darlings, with some help for next season's shopping sensibilities. Now I shall depart and wish you all a happy New Year!

Please Note: I do not own any of these images, courtesy of Vogue.com, Vogue.co.uk and YSL.com