Sports Luxe: Love It Or Loathe It

Sportswear has always been a rather dominant movement within the fashion industry, especially during the 80s and 90s . However, now it's back and all over the forefront of the Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter 2016 runways. From Balenciaga's business-like cagoule paired with sartorial suit trousers and Versace's Après-ski look consisting of ski pants and clumpy clodhopper boots draped in chains, to Louis Vuitton's luxury body-skimming onesie. I think one can certainly say that the athletic look was out in full form.

Balenciaga's trans-seasonal cagoule

Donatella Versace's Après-ski looks

If I say tracksuit, what do we all think of? Yes, that's right, an iridescent two-piece mess worn by a mass of typically British teenagers brandished as "chavs". However, do we continue to think like that? On the most part, yes. Although, there is now a quite sizeable majority who are embracing leisure-wear not just for practicality and accessibility purposes but also because of the fact that influential fashion powerhouses like Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Chanel have all started embracing said trend, giving the nod to anyone daring enough to wear jade green sweats with floral adornments out in public.

The Gucci tracksuit

Susie Lau of StyleBubble

If we think back to 10 years ago, no one would have dared to step out of the door wearing Reeboks, cuffed trackies, an oversized hoodie and a seemingly solemn looking cap - unless you were a member of a suburban cult group that worshipped Vicky Pollard. However, nowadays this has become the norm. We would now actively encourage people to wear hoop earrings, sweatshirts and Adidas trainers as a means of softening our style sensibilities and making everyone look 'edgy' and 'cool'.

Jourdan Dunn in an Adidas mesh overlay

On the other hand, I still believe that there is a fine line between what the general consensus of our nation considers as formal and informal. I simply refuse to believe that such a thing called the 'formal' jogger exists. Nothing about a pair of sweatpants equates to classy, no matter the fabric choice, brand or whether it's styled correctly. It still remains an item of the greatest informality.
At this point in time I am yet to gravitate into the vicinity of sport luxe, with the one exception of my trusty white Stan Smith's (a wardrobe staple in my view). I am certain that over time with the right amount of creative development and confidence we will all be able to happily pull off a turquoise two-piece and wedged trainers with considerable ease.

Please Note: I do not own any of these images, courtesy of Vogue.co.uk & Getty

Louis Vuitton Menswear Fall 2016

As the majority of you know, I am more of a womenswear blogger than a menswear one. However, today, I thought I would please my male readers by reviewing the Louis Vuitton Menswear show.

It’s been five whole years since Kim Jones became creative director for Louis Vuitton Men’s. Over the lustrum, we have seen a dramatic change in both aesthetics and commerce. We’ve witnessed the re-modelling of the brand’s historical link with travel, including the focus on the iconic leather luggage goods and accessories. We have also seen a rapid increase in sales and popularity due to the sheer practicality and grandeur of the clothing produced.

For this season’s menswear collection Kim Jones explored deeper into the house’s French DNA. We saw, as always, an interpretation on the theme of travel. From the navy silk pyjamas imprinted with ‘volez voyagez voguez’ (fly sail travel) mirroring Jones’ own adoration for travelling, to the wide array of luggage - vanity cases, duffel bags, satchels and oversized totes plastered with the monochrome monogram print, playing with the idea of somewhat paired back luxe.

 

Vanity cases and totes in a subdued palette

The show started out with a flurry of very sharp, controlled yet impeccably tailored formalwear pieces- fur overcoats with narrow legged tapered trousers and cashmere jackets infused with silk which served up a new textural dimension consisting of softer, cleaner lines.

As the show gradually progressed we hit an undoubtedly utilitarian selection of looks: stamp motifs slapped solidly onto the backs of sartorial suede outerwear and shearling lined taupe cashmere-coated bomber jackets and parkas brought the word ‘dandy’ back into our fashion vocabularies for the better.  

 

The colour palette was predominantly made up of neutrals such as: black, grey and ivory, however nuances of olive, navy and taupe also featured. As well as that, Jones used a geometric print to smother the lighter jersey outerwear pieces, perhaps suggesting romanticism, classicism or modernism? You decide.

Parisian influences were also out in full glory. Militarized berets accompanied by silk scarves worn as chokers and encrusted LV brooches with jangly earrings provided a hint of youth amongst this profoundly sophisticated collection.
My favourite pieces included the cross-patterned wool collarless coat with a fur belt and also the white silk shirt with ribbon-like wisps of black Art-Deco print which spoke amplitudes of luxury and fluidity.

I have to say that this was the only menswear collection this season where I wanted to buy everything!


Please note: I do not own any of these images, courtesy of Vogue.com
 

What's The Future For Dior?

With the sudden departure of Raf Simons at Christian Dior late last year, questions are swirling around the media concerning who will take over the post of creative director for the house. As the LVMH have already announced, the atelier design team will be taking the reigns for next season's couture and pret-a-porter FW16 collections, but that still doesn't prevent us budding fashionistas from pondering about who Dior will select for said role.

Included in my list of predictions are the likes of; Riccardo Tisci (creative director at Givenchy), Marc Jacobs (ex creative director at Louis Vuitton) and Olivier Rousteing (creative director at Balmain). In terms of their individual aesthetics, I think they each have something very unique yet intrinsically classical embedded into their DNA. This, perhaps, mirrors how well-suited they are in possibly designing for Dior.
 For example, Riccardo Tisci brings a poignant dark romanticism and Gothicism to all of his collections, alongside nuances of his signature streetwear look. For me, what is so incredible about his work is that he uses a perpetual array of reference points like the neo-gothic religious imagery he morphs into disproportioned t-shirts and the seemingly natural scattering of Victorian motifs on the most simplest of garments. I believe he could re-work the classicism and romanticism which we already associate with the house of Dior and drive it into a more diverse and modernized dimension.

 Neo-gothic imagery at Givenchy Fall 2015

 

American Vogue's 'Forces of Fashion' with Beyoncé (in Givenchy) and Riccardo Tisci

My second choice would be Olivier Rousteing. He is a strong contender for the role because he is able to bring that hype and attention from social media needed to bring clothing alive. As we all know, Balmain is, in no way, shape or form, at all traditional; in fact, Rousteing has completely gone against his brand's DNA but instead made up for it with this new appeal of luxury and opulence. Not only has he created a brand with incredibly successful profit margins but he has also made a brand which is adored by everyone (the celebrity cult especially). Perhaps this is what Dior needs, a refresh, a digital awakening?

 Balmain Spring/Summer 2016 campaign ft. Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer and Olivier Rousteing

Lastly, I had toyed with the idea of bringing in Marc Jacobs. He is without a doubt a legend in fashion. Throughout his 16 remarkable years at Louis Vuitton, it was noticeable that his design style and aesthetic grew immensely. I think it is fair to say that he 100% transformed the house of Vuitton from once being a tired, old independent fashion brand to a multi-million label with a net income of around $500 billion.  The real trick of his trade was that he used his imagination, he was a fantasist. Every single one of his shows he produced either for Vuitton or for his own brand told a story or rather a fairytale. The clothes themselves spoke depth and character, you could be transported into any time or place when you put them on. For example, Vuitton's Fall/Winter 2011 collection (one of my favourites) of 40s arch provocateurs- patent trench coats, sheer capri pants and leather corsets in rich tones of burgundy, brown and bottle green.

 

Louis Vuitton Fall 2011 by Marc Jacobs

 

Jourdan Dunn in a patent snakeskin trench coat with a cinched in waist

 

 Leather corsetry and volumized proportions

 

 Kate Moss

 

I for one do hope they appoint a female designer, simply because I feel like the industry as a whole lacks female presence. Don't get me wrong, we do have some exceptional female designers such as: Phoebe Philo at Celine, Claire Waight Keller at Chloe, Stella McCartney and Mary Katrantzou, who could all potentially step up to the plate. However, at this point in time, the industry is very much one of the only businesses which is so extremely male dominated.


Please note: I do not own any of these images, courtesy od Vogue.co.uk and Vogue.com