Kanye West: The Man Who Killed Fashion

Kanye West first made his mark in the fashion industry in 2011, when he produced two ready-to-wear collections for his own brand. Two ready-to-wear collections forgotten by the press and we all know very well indeed why..

He produced an 'edgy' Kanye West Woman that we all thoroughly love and cherish today: from the Velcro stiletto boots retailing at around $6000, those Yeezy trainer objects (which cannot even be classified as footwear) to the black hoodies- definitely groundbreaking. 

Then after we thought fashion hated him enough, he returned with his debut collection for Adidas Originals. The collection that gave us the consolidation we needed to prove that he cannot design and never will be able to.  It was nude bodysuits and leotards, green bombers and yes..the Yeezy trainer monstrosity (evidently coming back to haunt us). 

After that very first collection shown at PFW, which pushed a lot of negativity towards the 'celebrity designer'. In his official statement he said, most likely in anger, "I took out motherf***ing loans to get the best models, to get the best designers, to get the best venue." Oh Kanye darling, let us remember that success in fashion shouldn't come easily. It has to be worked for, not bought.

                          Picture Courtesy of NY.post

Balenciaga Fall 2015

Alexander Wang combined the edginess of New York street style with the opulence and luxury of French high fashion to create the ultimate society Balenciaga woman for his most recent collection for the house.

It was very much a reflection of Cristóbal Balenciaga's work in the late 30s- early 40s, however modernized by Wang's youthful, edgy aesthetic. The silhouettes remained true to the original Balenciaga clientele: the cocoon coats (a must-have piece this season), the hobble skirts drenched in lines of metallic hardware and perfectly tailored rounded jackets. 

The attention to detail was exquisite couture. I felt this collection was Wang's way of saying to the industry that this was how couture would be in the future and this was his portrayal of it. The use of metal hardware mirrored Wang's own collection for his brand this season - (Grunge and Rock'n'roll). We had that severity and a ferocious element from razor blades sutured onto the tweed dresses and metal staples set in regimented formation. Yet, we had the softness of French luxe; from the windowpane checks, fur collars to kitten heels with dainty bows. The infusion of both the severity and luxury, created something so raw and fresh, although a certain heaviness seemed to pervade through the collection.

                              Picture Courtesy Style.com

Who Is The New Gucci Girl?

I think most of the fashion industry was surprised or rather shocked at Alessandro Michele's debut collection for Gucci last week.

If we think back to the past to when Tom Ford brought the house back to life in the late 90s; the Gucci girl was strong, powerful and very attractive. Then, when Frida Giannini took hold of the reigns in 2006, the Gucci girl maintained being strong and independent but at the same time she had a darker, more elusive side- a side which has been carried through to the present day. With Alessandro Michele now at the forefront of Italian fashion, a question relating to his work sparks interest with fashion enthusiasts, is there even a Gucci girl anymore? 

My general feeling surrounding the collection was that it portrayed a younger girl in quite a confused state. Was she a boy or a girl? Shown through the androgynous tailoring of a handful of pieces, forming a quite masculine silhouette but also the mixed sex casting. The collection had the potential to be beautiful, however this was downplayed by the mismatch of colour combinations and the substantial lack of styling throughout. 

We still had strong Gucci references fluctuating through collection. From the horse bit loafers, in a fur-lined slipper form, or the signature Gucci print which marked the leather goods to the iridescent pleated dresses which radiated through the stronger Tom Ford years. 

Michele had everything he needed to execute an outstanding debut show; unfortunately I felt that there was a clear unbalance between his creative search for the Gucci girl and the target market to which he will try and aim his sales.

On the topic of sales, Michele's rushed debut menswear collection for the house certainly sent mixed signals to the critics and buyers. Sales surged from this dramatically new and fresh aesthetic. Consequently, I think it will be intriguing to watch the evolution of Michele's work at Gucci. He, without a doubt, obtains the heights of a unique creative mind, but time will tell how he will choose to apply it.

                  
                          Picture Courtesy of Style.com
                                                  

Oscars 2015 Worst Dressed

My dear readers, apologies for I am aware that I'm a bit late on the bandwagon for this one. But tell me what is better than criticising celebrity's fashion? 
Also disclaimer if you like any of these celebrities or admire their attire, I am so deeply sorry.  Let us begin:

Julianne Moore

She wins the Oscar and she chooses this dress, why would she do that? 

Let's talk about this in more detail. Firstly, let me just start off by saying that this gown simply does not flatter her one bit. It is long and rigid, there is no shape. Secondly, those panels of embellishment; they look lovely from afar, but as you get closer..it looks like a child has papier-mâchéd all manner of objects onto it. I know, custom Chanel- but come on Karl. Sorry everyone, I am not a fan.

Rita Ora

Ah now, Rita Ora, she'll do anything to get her boobs out. Here though, I feel she went just a bit too far. I am so sorry, but her stylist should be fired. It's too risqué for my liking. The only positive pointer I picked up on was her new hair and her makeup. It's very edgy and suits her very well.

Marion Cotillard

We get it, your face of Dior. But darling please, you have the whole Christian Dior archive to choose an oscar dress and you chose this. The top half is perfectly pleasant with stunningly intricate beading; then when we meet the bottom half, nightmare! It's one of those things you look at and wonder what she's hiding under there. I'm just baffled why it looks as grotesque as it does.

Will.i.am

Another human being of whom I find extremely annoying in terms of fashion. Let's break this outfit down. So your attending the Oscars; the most prestigious film event of the year and the dress-code is black tie. Wouldn't you just wear a sharply tailored suit, as a mark of respect? Well evidently not in Will.i.am's case. Instead we have been graced with rolled up track suit bottoms, (one of life's biggest sins) an unusual pair of studded trainers, a striped shirt and lastly, a hat which resembles a train conductor. This deeply offends my eyes.

Blanca Blanco

Who even is this? I am disgusted. 

If your looking for that perfect prom dress: comprising of ruffles, a delicate coating of black on red, an abstract scattering of sequins, leather motifs and a rope halter-neck. This is the one for you! 

In all seriousness though, if she thinks she looks good in this, she requires a major style intervention. She must be delusional because this is simply unforgivable. 

          Picture courtesy of Elle.co.uk, Style.com, thegloss.com

Balmain Fall 2015 PFW

I have always admired Olivier Rousteing's work for Balmain. He knows how to dress women and make them look young, edgy yet totally glamorous. Glamour was the main theme at Balmain today, a long side the hype which surrounded Queen Kim Kardashian and her new platinum locks.

It is safe to say that every piece in the collection, Kim would wear or has already worn in some incarnation. From the billowing pleated skirts to the tight-fitting bandeau tops submerged under a sheer chiffon day dress. She was the muse for the entire collection and we all knew that.

We had a sense of opulence; perhaps the vintage-toned riche colour palette, consisting of the most luxurious colours- metallic mustard, a bronzey orange, forest green and fiery fuchsia.
The iridescent fabrics were a marvel, especially in pleats. We had the most volumizing balloon trousers which sat below a tailored blazer.

It was out with the 80s (last season) and in with the 70s- well,  as much as possible. Flares were still a big feature throughout: saw in lace, pleats and with 10x added volume.  In the last half of the collection, lighter than light chiffon jumpsuits in all manner of prints (florals in particular) graced the scene- contrasting to the fierce, strong and seductive woman as seen in the first segment.

The casting for the show screamed sass. Victoria Secret Angels left right and centre: Alessandra Ambrosio, Adriana Lima, Karlie Kloss; combined with the model greats of the moment, Jourdan Dunn, Lily Donaldson, Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid. It was evident why he chose these girls to convey his sexy, glamorous Balmain goddess.

We had less of the skin and more of the cover up. Less sex appeal but more business.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Picture courtesy of Style.com 

Versace Fall 2015: Virtual Versace

Finally that day has arrived! That day Donatella Versace has been waiting for the past decade. The crucial integration of Versace's past (including Gianni's legacy) with the digital era of the industry today. 

                      

Evidently, Donatella had aimed high for this collection and my god did she deliver. 

The collection had a sheer amount of audacity; from the intensely lustrous primary colour palette to the internet motifs, # and @, which splashed Versace signatures. On the one hand, we had essences of Gianni (Donatella's late brother) Versace's work for the house in the late 80s- early 90s: perhaps the very sensuous and revealing silhouettes, which bestowed a slight fierce yet almost efficacious quality, or maybe the over the top build up of classic prints; like the medusa heads doused in operatic golden tones. 

On the other hand, we had what I think was the Versace woman of today; seen through Donatella's eyes. Modern silouhettes, gladiator belts, flares and patent scarlet knee-high boots. We had traces of recent past collections: the cutouts featured at Atelier Versace (couture) only just a couple of weeks ago and the sharp yet seductive tailoring from again, the Atelier collections. It was bringing the classic couture moments of the house into prêt-a-porter; almost as if it was an anniversary collection. 

 

                      

Both aesthetics maintained by the Versace siblings combined into one this week. Presenting and hopefully preserving, a strong statement to the global clientele. This was Donatella, the queen of Versace!

 

                                                         Picture Courtesy of Style.com

                       

                              

                      

Dolce and Gabanna Fall 2015

You must be thinking Dolce and Gabbana's collections cannot get any worse. Well your wrong, because today's collection just did.

Oh what a glorious spectacle it was. The collection was called 'Mamma Knows Best'. You may think I'm joking; I'm not. Tacky is not a word used in fashion much, but I'm reclaiming it in this review.

Oh yes the Dolce boys were celebrating motherhood for this collection, 'dedicated to mothers of the world', said Sarah Harris.

Let me start off with the casting. How lovely it was to see models carry babies, who clearly were enjoying their time, while they paraded down the catwalk. Wasn't it just so inspirational to see?

In terms of the pieces, what can I say? It is the same repeated flower motif every season.  The same tribute to their Sicilian roots. We saw the giant red rose on a lace dress with velvet shoes, some peculiar looking bag and the new add-on this season, the embellished tiara headphone monstrosity!! I apologise if you actually liked these, but I am sorry my dear readers, it is obscene and so laughable. We then had the usual of the flared black skirt suits. Then of course some biblical references of Madonna and Child featuring in some of the prints.

The evening wear was, as you would expect, absolutely disgusting! For we were treated to some gorgeous silk dresses ruined by children's scrawl (the kind of things you'd see hung up on the fridge), which was then embroidered on- adding a young, textural dimension that we all so need on a lovely evening gown. Fortunately Stephano and Domenico finally realised that some of their clientele would not wear that, so instead they added a fur for a touch of sophistication or to just cover up from the horrors that lay beneath.

You can tell the boys are trying so very hard to improve their collections every season. With baby steps they will manage to captivate their target audience. However, for now, this is not the case.

Picture courtesy of Style.com

Burberry Prorsum Fall 2015: British Bohemian

Burberry is always one of the most anticipated shows at LFW, yet Christopher Bailey consistently proves himself endlessly unpredictable.
Last season we had plisse chiffon and tulle dresses in natural ombre, the signature trench coat covered in abstract prints and bold slogans and flat sandals in graphic tri-toned colours.
This season however, Bailey transformed the Burberry girl into an exotic yet bookish bohemian. It was all about the materials: from a delightful patchwork, floral trench and suede Macs to an army of heavily fringed ponchos plastered in the most beautiful prints and patterns. Empire-lines took precedency(also seen at Prada). The craftsmanship is always strong at Burberry. The use of heritage methods are applied to create that quintessentially British look.

Gypsy motifs fluctuated through the collection - for instance, the flowing folk dresses layered under edgy waistcoats in a rich yet subdued colour palette, giving a sense of a luxury antique feel. However, we saw the contrast presented by the modernity of some of the vintage looking pieces- shown through the grosgrain panelling over the whimsical folk dresses, which added a modern structure.

Colours were muted yet darker-toned: teal, olive, tan and maroon, giving the collection an added sense of romanticism.
My favourite pieces were the last gypsy'esque dresses with the most intricate embellishments- mirrored paisleys and sequined florals. Also the suede, patchwork knee-high boots which perfectly complemented the autumnal palette.

 

Picture Courtesy Style.com