Racial Diversity On The Runway

What do we mean by 'diversity'? Owing to the fact that one of the most crucial movements in fashion is diversity, one would think it was a good sign that the current trend for Spring/Summer 2016 is 'diversity'. However this is not just diversity through model castings; this is diversity shown through shapes and silhouettes. With Olivier Rousteing at Balmain celebrating curves and the Paris Fashion Week Board officially banning super-skinny models, it seems like there has been rather a re-definition of the word. Perhaps this is a cunning diversion away from the serious issue of ethnic diversity that the industry fails to take responsibility for at present.

According to The Business of Fashion's Spring/Summer 2016 diversity report, an astonishing 79% of runway models used this season were white. Why not more models of colour?
Designers such as Victoria Beckham and Francisco Costa at Calvin Klein have been criticised season after season for casting an array of very angry super-skinny looking models, and even more surprisingly they are all white. Probably the most disparagement went to the house of Valentino. Despite producing a collection solely inspired by Africa, Valentino made use of entirely white models in cornrows and tribalized prints, showing an intense lack of respect towards the African communities and instead generalising their country to fit in with Valentino's now seemingly profane aesthetic.

Saying this, there are a minority of designers who are encouraging the influx of more diverse model selections. For example: Tom Ford, Riccardo Tisci and Christopher Bailey for Burberry. Supermodels such as Naomi Campbell, Iman and Jourdan Dunn have all been campaigning on the issue and thanks to them, in recent years, we have seen a fairly modest surge in racial diversity across the industry.

Jourdan Dunn and Naomi Campbell for Burberry

I believe that it is vital that the industry does not dismiss the austere nature of this problem. As much as we continue to encourage the use of other minorities throughout the industry, it still does not seem to conquer the face of discrimination from employers. In my opinion, I think that if we continue to voice our opinions perhaps the fashion industry will stop turning a blind-eye to the real problems and face the situation head-on.  

Picture Courtesy: www.Dazeddigital.com  & www.style.com

Trending Fall 2015- Brisk Boho

70s Bohemia was the defining aesthetic brought to us by designers this new Fall season. We saw Christopher Bailey at Burberry produce a British Boho Burberry girl, comprising of patchwork, fringing, whimsical folk dresses coated in embellished florals and paisleys.

 

 

 

Lanvin's Alber Elbaz combined his Moroccan roots with the Lanvin archive, creating a raw sophistication. It was dark, texturally complex (fur, goat hair, snakeskin yokes, leather harnesses, embellishments), but at the same time screamed luxury.

 

 

                                        

 

Others labels such as: Etro, Dsquared and Dries Van Noten all formed an embodiment of  boho beauties or Aztec princesses. Laid down in front of us:- printed ponchos, gauzy gowns and earth-inspired hues, all spiced up with a generous handful of eclectic ethnicity.   

 

 

                                      Etro

 

Another trend, relating closely to the boho chic was a gypsy, medieval revival. Think Esmerelda from The Hunchback of Notre-Dame. Gypsy dresses covered in quaint waistcoats, suede tunics draped in strips of fringe and,lastly, flowing patchwork skirts in all manners of textures (seen at Chloé). With gypsy boho, one can have the freedom to experiment- there is no conformity in this trend, it's all about that element of  uniqueness.

 

 

                                      Chloe

                          Picture Courtesy of Style.com

Burberry Prorsum Fall 2015: British Bohemian

Burberry is always one of the most anticipated shows at LFW, yet Christopher Bailey consistently proves himself endlessly unpredictable.
Last season we had plisse chiffon and tulle dresses in natural ombre, the signature trench coat covered in abstract prints and bold slogans and flat sandals in graphic tri-toned colours.
This season however, Bailey transformed the Burberry girl into an exotic yet bookish bohemian. It was all about the materials: from a delightful patchwork, floral trench and suede Macs to an army of heavily fringed ponchos plastered in the most beautiful prints and patterns. Empire-lines took precedency(also seen at Prada). The craftsmanship is always strong at Burberry. The use of heritage methods are applied to create that quintessentially British look.

Gypsy motifs fluctuated through the collection - for instance, the flowing folk dresses layered under edgy waistcoats in a rich yet subdued colour palette, giving a sense of a luxury antique feel. However, we saw the contrast presented by the modernity of some of the vintage looking pieces- shown through the grosgrain panelling over the whimsical folk dresses, which added a modern structure.

Colours were muted yet darker-toned: teal, olive, tan and maroon, giving the collection an added sense of romanticism.
My favourite pieces were the last gypsy'esque dresses with the most intricate embellishments- mirrored paisleys and sequined florals. Also the suede, patchwork knee-high boots which perfectly complemented the autumnal palette.

 

Picture Courtesy Style.com