Miu Miu Fall 2016

The trend of today seems quirkly playful and all out eccentric, which is certainly what Miuccia Prada brought to the table with this season's Miu Miu collection. 
With the current grannified eccentricity vibe we are seeing at Gucci, it is no wonder that more and more designers are becoming intrigued by this movement and eager to explore the niche hype of 'heirloom dressing'.
Today, Miuccia toyed with the ideas of eclectic V modern- factoring in the old and the new. We saw the revival of the late 70s, early 80s with of course a generous dose of 50s Hollywood glamour. Think carpet tapestry maxi skirts, velour evening wear and wide array of taffeta dresses. There were also hints of the more dandy, gentrified look- waxy parkas with furred up forearms, (seen on Kendall) tweed suits + jodhpurs and lastly topped off with sartorially shaped military proportions.

Tapestry maxi

Adriana Lima

Kendall Jenner

Tweed jodhpur suits

A contributing early historical element also came into play. More a melange of the romantic and medieval era than anything. Hence the highfalutin silk velvet brocades coated in subdued pinks and turquoises, transposed onto 50's opera coats or on the full-skirts.
Although extremely romanticized, we still had a lot masculinity. Pinstripe shirts, boxer shorts, (seen on Taylor Hill) and utility jackets all worked well with the feminine pieces to mitigate the formality and at the same time up the luxuriousness.

Silk velvet brocades

Masculinized proportions

Taylor Hill

I adored those small touches that radiated this sheer sense of opulence; from the Baroque upholstered fabrics and the jewel-toned bags, to those divine ballerina dresses with asymmetrical hem-lines. Those little motifs completed the heirloom way of dressing. It is almost as if the woman has picked up what she has found at her Grandparents' house: a string of pearls, fluffy slippers, family jewels, pocket squares and copious amounts of fur.

Baroque upholstered fabrics

Ballerina Dresses

Miu Miu, being the last fashion show of Paris Fashion Week, gave us a good indication to what's in store for the future state of the house. Diversity seems to be the most accentuated trend of them all this season and it was so good to see that Miu Miu casted more models of colour. Especially models of much more resplendent, fuller shapes as well.
This was by far my favourite Miu Miu collection to date.

Please Note: I do not own any of these images, courtesy of vogue.co.uk

Balmain FW16

As many of you have probably realized, I have been a bit slow with show reviews for this season. I have decided to spread them through March and April, so please do bare with.

Today's Balmain show caused yet again a social media frenzy. As soon as Kendall Jenner appeared in a blonde wig, followed by Gigi Hadid and Jourdan Dunn, we all knew there would be a dramatic influx in both sales and popularity.
This season marked a new change in Olivier Rousteing's seemingly modernistic aesthetic. Instead of producing a collection solely oozing with raw sexuality, he created something that one could consider as 'minimal' for the house of Balmain. He approached softly, with a Baroque reference point held in mind.

Of course being Balmain we still had seductive, however it was mitigated by a pretty pastel colour palette- from subdued lilacs and mint green to baby pinks and dove greys. This colour palette perfectly complimented the new silhouettes introduced to us today. For example those pouf skirts and suede corsets amplified rich opulence, as well as the reprisal of those jewel embellished mini dresses with silk tassels we saw in the pre-fall collection.

 

Gigi Hadid in a suede corset

Jourdan Dunn ft. pouf skirt

Hints of previous seasons were also made dominant by Rousteing. Take the brocade dresses with cinched in waists, the tiered ruffles which lay on the sides of lace jumpsuits (Spring 2016) and lastly the oversized musketeer jackets in the softest of fabrics.



Karlie Kloss in lace ruffled jumpsuit

 



Oversized musketeer coat

 



I love the regalia element that fluctuated through the collection. My favourite pieces included: the gold and black encrusted bodice which exemplified the fine artistry of the house's DNA, the thigh- high suede boots and also the closing botanical dress with an interior corset structure.(Worn by Kendall).

Regalia details

Thigh-highs

 

 

Kendall in the closing look

PLEASE NOTE: I do not own any of these images, courtesy of Vogue.co.uk

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2016

This season Sarah Burton drew from the archive at McQueen, re-imagining some fundamental ideas that Lee himself used through his
unfortunately cut-short career. Focuses: romanticism, naturalism, alongside a seemingly integral historicism - which we have been seeing a lot of all through this fashion month.

It was a rather surprising collection, there was nothing dark or grotesque, no harsh latex masks encapsulating the model's faces and, remarkably, no unique fabrics like synthetic hairs or impala horns.
 

Instead, we were presented with an array of simply beautiful, classic clothes. Fluid, floral printed gowns draped in cascading blush pink ruffles and Lee's signature 16th-century red military tailored jackets which sat over a sheer tiered skirt, asserted a gentle regalia mood over the engrossed spectators. 

 

Alongside that we saw Bohemia inspired by English Folklore. From the slashed blue jeans paired with a heavily embellished top of roses, to a delicate French laced top with a ruffled trail stratified over a pair of white slouchy trousers and white trainers (a look similar to the Givenchy Heroine).

 

 

Despite these pieces containing so much fragility and ethereality, there was an underlying fetishistic tone- corsets and chained harnesses mixed an unlikely combination of Bohemia and Victoriana, featured in the evening gowns.

 

 

 

 

There was also an idea of age and decay. Let's take the silk faille floral jacquards and the frays on the hem-lines- they felt to me like they were unfinished works of art, like a wilted rose subjected to years of abandonment. However nothing was actually incomplete with this collection, it was all done within the McQueen aesthetic and perhaps that's what made it feel so cleverly distinguishable.



silk faille floral jacquards

 

 

Please note: I do not own any of these images, courtesy of Vogue.com

Céline Spring/Summer 2016

As expected with a Céline collection, it never fails to let us down. This season was a retrospective of everything we love about Phoebe Philo (creative director for the house). She is able to create clothes that women actually want to wear and could wear (despite the price tag). Asserting the idea that clothes can be easily adaptable to the way women want to live their lives, instead of feeling victimised by fashion.
However today, Philo played more with the ideas of femininity, gently moving away from minimalism with the introduction to prints and a wider array of fabrics.
Femininity through the more accentuated silhouettes and voluminous dimensions- crepe trousers and puffed up shoulders; cinched in waists and severely sartorial structures.

We saw pieces that we would have never of dreamt of seeing at a Céline show. Take the silk slip dresses that have deemed rather popular this season,(seen at Givenchy, Burberry and Calvin Klein)which had lace details that carefully drew attention to the female form. Or perhaps that deconstructed moss green overcoat which Philo re-worked, offering us a confliction between the cinched-in elasticated waist and the boxy, masculinised shoulders.

 

 

Lace silk slip dresses

 



 

Morphed shapes in moss green

 



My favourite looks were the leather tunics that sat over asymmetrical jersey dresses, they just screamed aggression yet downplayed by the fluidity of delicate fabrics. Almost resembling a suit of armour.

 

Leather tunics implied powerful futurism

Also Céline is generally well known for its rather grandiose array of accessories, in particular bags. From the phantom tote to the trapeze, these bags are pure dreams. This season exhibited a brand new selection: pillow bags, the box clutch and those auburn bucket bags.(literally to die for)

 Pillow bag

 

Violet Crocodile box-clutch

Amidst this perfectly conveyed notion of masculine vs feminine, we also had this portrayal of almost quite a pertinent futuristic 'urbanista' as one now calls it. A woman of the utmost class and dignity, who believes only in a non-mainstream and alternative way of dressing. Someone who can easily adapt their style to their surroundings, as it were. Definitely open for interpretation.

For me, Phoebe Philo remains one of my favourite designers. Her visions are simple, raw and dynamic. Season after season she brings us more than just clothing collections, they are art installations.

Please Note: I do not own any of these images, courtesy of Vogue.com

Trending Fall 2015- Brisk Boho

70s Bohemia was the defining aesthetic brought to us by designers this new Fall season. We saw Christopher Bailey at Burberry produce a British Boho Burberry girl, comprising of patchwork, fringing, whimsical folk dresses coated in embellished florals and paisleys.

 

 

 

Lanvin's Alber Elbaz combined his Moroccan roots with the Lanvin archive, creating a raw sophistication. It was dark, texturally complex (fur, goat hair, snakeskin yokes, leather harnesses, embellishments), but at the same time screamed luxury.

 

 

                                        

 

Others labels such as: Etro, Dsquared and Dries Van Noten all formed an embodiment of  boho beauties or Aztec princesses. Laid down in front of us:- printed ponchos, gauzy gowns and earth-inspired hues, all spiced up with a generous handful of eclectic ethnicity.   

 

 

                                      Etro

 

Another trend, relating closely to the boho chic was a gypsy, medieval revival. Think Esmerelda from The Hunchback of Notre-Dame. Gypsy dresses covered in quaint waistcoats, suede tunics draped in strips of fringe and,lastly, flowing patchwork skirts in all manners of textures (seen at Chloé). With gypsy boho, one can have the freedom to experiment- there is no conformity in this trend, it's all about that element of  uniqueness.

 

 

                                      Chloe

                          Picture Courtesy of Style.com