Miu Miu Fall 2016

The trend of today seems quirkly playful and all out eccentric, which is certainly what Miuccia Prada brought to the table with this season's Miu Miu collection. 
With the current grannified eccentricity vibe we are seeing at Gucci, it is no wonder that more and more designers are becoming intrigued by this movement and eager to explore the niche hype of 'heirloom dressing'.
Today, Miuccia toyed with the ideas of eclectic V modern- factoring in the old and the new. We saw the revival of the late 70s, early 80s with of course a generous dose of 50s Hollywood glamour. Think carpet tapestry maxi skirts, velour evening wear and wide array of taffeta dresses. There were also hints of the more dandy, gentrified look- waxy parkas with furred up forearms, (seen on Kendall) tweed suits + jodhpurs and lastly topped off with sartorially shaped military proportions.

Tapestry maxi

Adriana Lima

Kendall Jenner

Tweed jodhpur suits

A contributing early historical element also came into play. More a melange of the romantic and medieval era than anything. Hence the highfalutin silk velvet brocades coated in subdued pinks and turquoises, transposed onto 50's opera coats or on the full-skirts.
Although extremely romanticized, we still had a lot masculinity. Pinstripe shirts, boxer shorts, (seen on Taylor Hill) and utility jackets all worked well with the feminine pieces to mitigate the formality and at the same time up the luxuriousness.

Silk velvet brocades

Masculinized proportions

Taylor Hill

I adored those small touches that radiated this sheer sense of opulence; from the Baroque upholstered fabrics and the jewel-toned bags, to those divine ballerina dresses with asymmetrical hem-lines. Those little motifs completed the heirloom way of dressing. It is almost as if the woman has picked up what she has found at her Grandparents' house: a string of pearls, fluffy slippers, family jewels, pocket squares and copious amounts of fur.

Baroque upholstered fabrics

Ballerina Dresses

Miu Miu, being the last fashion show of Paris Fashion Week, gave us a good indication to what's in store for the future state of the house. Diversity seems to be the most accentuated trend of them all this season and it was so good to see that Miu Miu casted more models of colour. Especially models of much more resplendent, fuller shapes as well.
This was by far my favourite Miu Miu collection to date.

Please Note: I do not own any of these images, courtesy of vogue.co.uk

DKNY FW16

After Donna Karan stepped down from her eponymous diffusion line DKNY, the fashion world was introduced to a new designing duo- Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osbourne (ex-designers for Public School). For their September debut at the house, they delivered a collection - of course - solely inspired by New York. However, they seemed to avoid the free-spirited eclectic nature of the city’s youth and approached from a different angle, a more corporate slant. The collection was full of modernity, minimalism and sophistication: sartorialized suits, crisp white shirts and over-sized proportions. There is no doubt that they had e-commerce in their minds when creating that collection.

Their second collection, on the other hand, was a tribute to New York’s streetwear culture. 90s’ motifs fluctuated throughout the collection, combined with Japanese cuts and silhouettes. I love how they are revitalizing the house by deconstructing all the wardrobe basics and re-working them into more wearable hybrids of the versions before. Take the DKNY signature, the pinstripe suit, for example. They totally lacerated it, creating a cropped blazer with baggy trousers being held up by giant buckled suspenders.
  

 

Tomboy is a word I would associate with this collection. We had chunky combat boots, the masculinized proportions of a re-shaped shirt dress with asymmetrical lines and a pair of striped tracksuit dungarees held up with huge plastic clips; what more could you wish for?

 

Re-worked shirt dress

90-esque sartorially striped dungarees

I took a particular liking to the velvet blazer which sat loosely above a high-neck lace bodice and also the white shirts with laser-cut details were just sumptuous.  

 

For the finale we were presented to a vast array of neoprene sweatshirts emblazoned with fresh new anagrams of ‘DKNY’ like ‘Designers know nothing yet’ and ‘Don’t knock New York’, definitely a clever way to show us that their legacy has just begun.

Evidently, being their second collection, Chow and Osbourne are still figuring out who their DKNY girl is – however, I think they are certainly heading on the right road for success!
  

 Please Note: I do not own any of these images, courtesy of Vogue.co.uk and theimpression.com