Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2016

This season Sarah Burton drew from the archive at McQueen, re-imagining some fundamental ideas that Lee himself used through his
unfortunately cut-short career. Focuses: romanticism, naturalism, alongside a seemingly integral historicism - which we have been seeing a lot of all through this fashion month.

It was a rather surprising collection, there was nothing dark or grotesque, no harsh latex masks encapsulating the model's faces and, remarkably, no unique fabrics like synthetic hairs or impala horns.
 

Instead, we were presented with an array of simply beautiful, classic clothes. Fluid, floral printed gowns draped in cascading blush pink ruffles and Lee's signature 16th-century red military tailored jackets which sat over a sheer tiered skirt, asserted a gentle regalia mood over the engrossed spectators. 

 

Alongside that we saw Bohemia inspired by English Folklore. From the slashed blue jeans paired with a heavily embellished top of roses, to a delicate French laced top with a ruffled trail stratified over a pair of white slouchy trousers and white trainers (a look similar to the Givenchy Heroine).

 

 

Despite these pieces containing so much fragility and ethereality, there was an underlying fetishistic tone- corsets and chained harnesses mixed an unlikely combination of Bohemia and Victoriana, featured in the evening gowns.

 

 

 

 

There was also an idea of age and decay. Let's take the silk faille floral jacquards and the frays on the hem-lines- they felt to me like they were unfinished works of art, like a wilted rose subjected to years of abandonment. However nothing was actually incomplete with this collection, it was all done within the McQueen aesthetic and perhaps that's what made it feel so cleverly distinguishable.



silk faille floral jacquards

 

 

Please note: I do not own any of these images, courtesy of Vogue.com