What's The Future For Dior?

With the sudden departure of Raf Simons at Christian Dior late last year, questions are swirling around the media concerning who will take over the post of creative director for the house. As the LVMH have already announced, the atelier design team will be taking the reigns for next season's couture and pret-a-porter FW16 collections, but that still doesn't prevent us budding fashionistas from pondering about who Dior will select for said role.

Included in my list of predictions are the likes of; Riccardo Tisci (creative director at Givenchy), Marc Jacobs (ex creative director at Louis Vuitton) and Olivier Rousteing (creative director at Balmain). In terms of their individual aesthetics, I think they each have something very unique yet intrinsically classical embedded into their DNA. This, perhaps, mirrors how well-suited they are in possibly designing for Dior.
 For example, Riccardo Tisci brings a poignant dark romanticism and Gothicism to all of his collections, alongside nuances of his signature streetwear look. For me, what is so incredible about his work is that he uses a perpetual array of reference points like the neo-gothic religious imagery he morphs into disproportioned t-shirts and the seemingly natural scattering of Victorian motifs on the most simplest of garments. I believe he could re-work the classicism and romanticism which we already associate with the house of Dior and drive it into a more diverse and modernized dimension.

 Neo-gothic imagery at Givenchy Fall 2015

 

American Vogue's 'Forces of Fashion' with Beyoncé (in Givenchy) and Riccardo Tisci

My second choice would be Olivier Rousteing. He is a strong contender for the role because he is able to bring that hype and attention from social media needed to bring clothing alive. As we all know, Balmain is, in no way, shape or form, at all traditional; in fact, Rousteing has completely gone against his brand's DNA but instead made up for it with this new appeal of luxury and opulence. Not only has he created a brand with incredibly successful profit margins but he has also made a brand which is adored by everyone (the celebrity cult especially). Perhaps this is what Dior needs, a refresh, a digital awakening?

 Balmain Spring/Summer 2016 campaign ft. Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer and Olivier Rousteing

Lastly, I had toyed with the idea of bringing in Marc Jacobs. He is without a doubt a legend in fashion. Throughout his 16 remarkable years at Louis Vuitton, it was noticeable that his design style and aesthetic grew immensely. I think it is fair to say that he 100% transformed the house of Vuitton from once being a tired, old independent fashion brand to a multi-million label with a net income of around $500 billion.  The real trick of his trade was that he used his imagination, he was a fantasist. Every single one of his shows he produced either for Vuitton or for his own brand told a story or rather a fairytale. The clothes themselves spoke depth and character, you could be transported into any time or place when you put them on. For example, Vuitton's Fall/Winter 2011 collection (one of my favourites) of 40s arch provocateurs- patent trench coats, sheer capri pants and leather corsets in rich tones of burgundy, brown and bottle green.

 

Louis Vuitton Fall 2011 by Marc Jacobs

 

Jourdan Dunn in a patent snakeskin trench coat with a cinched in waist

 

 Leather corsetry and volumized proportions

 

 Kate Moss

 

I for one do hope they appoint a female designer, simply because I feel like the industry as a whole lacks female presence. Don't get me wrong, we do have some exceptional female designers such as: Phoebe Philo at Celine, Claire Waight Keller at Chloe, Stella McCartney and Mary Katrantzou, who could all potentially step up to the plate. However, at this point in time, the industry is very much one of the only businesses which is so extremely male dominated.


Please note: I do not own any of these images, courtesy od Vogue.co.uk and Vogue.com

Christian Dior Fall 2015 Couture

The 16th century pilgrims meet the impressionist art movement is how I would summarise Raf Simmons' latest collection for Dior.

Last season Simmons explored the concept of 'the future as seen by the past', with the use of David Bowie being his main inspiration. I felt we had been introduced to a much more harsh, almost fetishistic version of the Dior Woman. 

However, this season we still had that futurism yet it was mitigated by Simmons' historical aesthetics- the journey back to the archives which brought us a more innocent, (I hate to use this word) sexy yet sinister vision. Perhaps those 40s ('New Look') coats which clinched in at the waist to open up into a full-skirt briefly dabbled in the darker side with heavy metal chains. 

        

We also saw quotations from previous collections: the scarf neck-line, the tulip skirts which embraced more of a classic 50s silouhette in contrast to the distinctively audacious spirit captured by Simmons last season and lastly, the deconstruction of the defining coat. By deconstruction I mean Simmons took the basic structure of the overcoat and added a flare from his imagination- the bell sleeves (which deemed popular this couture season, especially at Atelier Versace), the glimpse of a fur stole, as one would call it, that appeared through a sleeveless caban and those jacquard chain-mail nets which sat over an ethereal gown.

        

         

        

The opening look comprised of a white organza flowing gown of tissue-thin transparency setting this look of purity within a demure silouhette.

It was evident to me that Simmons was playing with perhaps the imbalance of lightness vs darkness, for example the design of the tulip skirts, which presented a rigid structure was downplayed by the pastel kaleidoscope which splashed its surface, to create perhaps a false vision of softness.

For me it was about the contrast between old and new. With this historical aesthetic that Simmons releases every season, he attracts a much more youthful audience, even aesthetic.

                         Fur stoles 

 

                  

                     Picture courtesy of Style.com