Christopher Bailey named his latest Spring/Summer collection, Functionregalia. A blend of two words, functionality and regalia. (describing the insignia of royalty)
I love this new path designers are taking, avoiding the conformity of trends and seasons, instead producing instant ready-to-wear clothes for all. It's somewhat refreshing to see, however what will happen to catwalk shows in general? The suppliers for seasonal updates will become virtually non-existent, brands will save money from producing a single trans-seasonal collection and the ecommerce will undoubtedly soar.
In all honesty, this was not one of my favourite burberry collections. Yes, we had a strong military leitmotif, the clothes combined utilitarian with that street wear edge, to make it more accessible for the younger global market. However, my general feeling was that the clothes lacked that quintessentially English vibe that Christopher always executes so perfectly. For example those pearl silk slip-gowns paired with those nylon backpacks (which I have to say will go onto my spring 'must-haves' list) just looked a bit, and I hate to say this, decrepit and frumpy.
Saying this, I adored the resuscitation of some of the Burberry signatures- the leather biker jacket with the gold cord trim to assert the regalia decadence, the variations of the trench coat- paper thin and incapsulating a sporty mesh hoodie. And lastly, the well-structured black peacoat with gold buttons, so classic.
I do have to mention how incredible the craftsmanship that goes into creating these clothes is. Like that buttercup woven raffia mini is just stunning up close. I was also so impressed that Christopher brought out the lace dresses- they were impeccably intricate and embellished. My favourite was the delicate chiffon habit with the black flower embellishments.
Colours were subdued, we had a predominantly monochrome palette with fluctuations of this buttercup yellow, mint green and blush pink.
Note: I do not own any of these images, courtesy of Vogue.com
No comments:
Post a Comment